About



Background


The Fashion Professorship at ArtEZ was launched in 2002. Professor José Teunissen was the first professor in the Netherlands to conduct research and develop theory in the field of fashion. At that point in time, fashion hardly had any international research tradition in academia. To investigate pressing issues in the field of (Dutch) fashion, the Fashion Professorship initiated several large-scale interdisciplinary research projects, such as ‘Dutch Fashion Identity in a Globalised World’ (2008-2014) and ‘Crafting Wearables’ (2013-2018) in collaboration with Professor Anneke Smelik of Radboud University, funded by NWO (Netherlands Organisation for Scientific Research). All research conducted by the Fashion Professorship resulted in international publications and exhibitions.

Since 2012, the professorship has been leading CLICKNL’s research agenda for fashion and textiles, in which a strong network of researchers, educational institutes and companies has been created. In 2015, together with dr. Jeroen van den Eijnde’s E| |scape Professorship, the Centre of Expertise Future Makers was initiated, which focuses on the development and application of new materials and manufacturing processes in fashion and design. In the meantime, this organisation has more than a million euros’ worth of research projects in its portfolio. In 2016, José Teunissen was appointed as Dean of the School of Design and Technology at the London College of Fashion (LCF), and in 2017 Danielle Bruggeman was appointed as Professor of Fashion at ArtEZ to further develop fashion research and theory in the Netherlands.







Research



Current Themes

Towards an alternative and engaged fashion system

The Fashion Professorship creates and affirms engaged alternative approaches, systems, vocabularies and strategies, using fashion as a tool for systemic change and transformation. Through diverse thinking, we will develop critical theories and critical (design) practices that start from a renewed sense of engagement and help to redefine the fashion system in its broader societal context.


Towards a redefined human-centered value system

The Fashion Professorship redefines the value systems from which we work, live, and engage with each other and with the material resources of the earth. This will help to move towards a more equitable cultures and circular societies, which does more justice to ethical/embodied subjectivities and identities, and thus to fashion’s human dimension.


Towards a new materialism of fashion

The Fashion Professorship creates a renewed sense of engagement with fashion’s materials and materialities, moving towards fashion as a new materialist aesthetics. It will focus on fashion as a second skin – its relation to physical bodies and the senses – and highlight the material agency of fashion objects and underline the importance of ‘living materials’ for a more resilient future.





Community



An important part of the Fashion Professorship’s mission is to build an interdisciplinary research community with diverse stakeholders to collectively research the changing values and meanings of fashion and to explore how to move forward. The Fashion Professorship will always encourage the active engagement of designers, students, experts from the industry, external partners, researchers, policy-makers, PhD students and alumni who share a passion and expertise with regard to the themes central to the changing fashion system. When people share a genuine interest in specific themes, the community will grow organically and become its own ecosystem (instead of ego-system).





Core Team

Daniëlle Bruggeman

is a cultural theorist, specialized in fashion and identity. In January 2017, she was appointed as Professor of Fashion at ArtEZ University of the Arts in Arnhem, the Netherlands. She teaches at both the MA Fashion Strategy and the MA Fashion Design at ArtEZ, and leads the Centre of Expertise Future Makers in collaboration with dr. Jeroen van den Eijnde. Daniëlle Bruggeman holds a PhD in Cultural Studies, which was part of the first large-scale interdisciplinary research project on fashion in the Netherlands, ‘Dutch Fashion Identity in a Globalised World’ (2010-2014) at Radboud University in Nijmegen, funded by the Netherlands Organisation for Scientific Research. She has been a visiting scholar at Parsons, the New School for Design (NYC), and at London College of Fashion. She has published on topics like the fluid, performative and embodied dimensions of identity, (Dutch) fashion photography, and fashion as a new materialist aesthetics. Her current research interests include exploring more engaged approaches, vocabularies and strategies, using fashion as a tool for systemic change and societal transformation. On April 25, 2018, Daniëlle Bruggeman gave her inaugural lecture and presented the accompanying publication Dissolving the Ego of Fashion: Engaging with Human Matters (published by ArtEZ Press).

  • New Materialism
  • Human Values
  • Alternative Systems

Hanka van der Voet

is Head of the MA Fashion Strategy at the ArtEZ Fashion Masters, where she lectures in Fashion Theory. In addi-tion, she is a researcher at the ArtEZ Modelectoraat, where her main focus is on (independent) fashion media. She is founder and editor-in-chief of Press & Fold | Notes on making and doing fashion, and she is also a founding member of Warehouse, a collective consisting of Elisa van Joolen, Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet, aiming to provide a platform for critical fashion practitioners in the Netherlands through organising expert meetings, reading groups and exhibitions among other things.

  • Alternative Systems

Judith ter Haar

is a concept developer, curator and business builder, who strives to connect people, products and places through emotional experience. Driven by intuitive knowledge, she combines her naturally inherent sense for aesthetics and emerging developments with a deep understanding of culture, art, philosophy and society. For more than 25 years, she has been operating as an independent entrepreneur. ‘Jones Arnhem’ was the initial platform she created to introduce the marriage between art and retail. With retail as a method to exchange creative intelligence, she introduced social awareness and education in her work. Judith teaches at several art academies in Europe and her courses mostly focus on how fashion and retail are embedded in society.

  • New Materialism

Pascale Gatzen

is a Dutch-born artist, fashion designer and educator. Embracing fashion as a mode of human togetherness, the focus of both her artistic practice and her teaching is on the relational aspects of fashion, advancing cooperative models of production and exchange. Her work is shown and published internationally. She is a founding member of ‘friends of light’, a workers’ cooperative for textile production in Brooklyn and the Hudson Valley, New York. She is the Head of the Master Fashion Design program at ArtEZ, Arnhem, the Netherlands, where she is developing and implementing a radically new curriculum.

  • Human Values



Advisory Board

Adriana Galijasevic

is a Denim and Sustainability Expert working with G-Star RAW since 2011. Her role is of interdepartmental nature, where she works with design, fabric & wash development and CR departments to constantly innovate on sustainable material targets and circularity within G-Star’s collections. She focuses on driving sustainability research, sustainable product innovation as well as the internal and external education. Adriana graduated from Drexel University (US) in 2002, majoring in Fashion Design and minoring in Art History. In 2007, she moved from NYC to Amsterdam to specialize in 17th century Dutch Art at the UvA. Her love for denim prompted her to start up a Denim Institute in 2008. Prior to that, she worked as a Head Denim Designer for various celebrity brands in NYC.


Anneke Smelik

is Katrien van Munster professor of Visual Culture at the Radboud University Nijmegen (Netherlands), where she is coordinator of the MA programme ‘Creative Industries’. She published widely on identity, body, memory and technology in cinema, videoclips, digital art, and fashion. Her most recent books include Delft Blue to Denim Blue. Contemporary Dutch Fashion; Materializing Memory in Art and Popular Culture; Thinking Through Fashion. A Guide to Key Theorists;and a book in Dutch on cyborgs in popular culture. Anneke Smelik is project leader of the research programme “Crafting Wearables; Fashionable Technology” (2013-2018), funded by the Netherlands Organization for Scientific Research.

www.annekesmelik.nl


Douwe Jan Joustra

is Head of Circular Transformation at the C&A Foundation.

http://www.candafoundation.org/


Pauline van Dongen

is a Dutch fashion designer and researcher specialised in wearable technology. As a creator intrigued by the notion of interactivity in fashion, she researches the human body in relation to its surroundings. She is fascinated by concepts of movement, energy and perception, as she believes the future of fashion lies in its premise to be dynamic and changing. To her, technology is not a mere tool, but rather one of aesthetics. There’s a strong focus on materiality in her work and the way it is capable of enhancing expression and the embodied experience. Her design philosophy remains rooted in the physical, sensory experience of clothing. Pauline is currently pursuing her PhD research as part of the programme 'Crafting Wearables', with which she aims to reveal an understanding and a role of technology in fashion that moves beyond the functional and instrumental.

www.paulinevandongen.nl


Roger Gerards

is Managing Director of Meester Opleiding Coupeur, the Master Tailor Institute in The Netherlands.

 www.meesteropleidingcoupeur.nl/nl/

 

 

 





Contributors

Chet Bugter, student ArtEZ Master Fashion Strategy, Generation 26

Femke de VriesArtist & Researcher

Lianne Toussaint, Cultural Theorist with a special interest in the integration of Fashion & Technology

Marina Sasseron, student ArtEZ Master Fashion Strategy, Generation 27

Ruby Hoette, Artist & Researcher

Zinzi de Brouwer, Fashion Narrator & Ethnographic Researcher

 





Key Partners

ArtEZ Center of Expertise | Future Makers

ArtEZ established the centre of expertise Future Makers (FM) in 2015. The new Centre of Expertise (CoE) brings together the ArtEZ’s Professorships Fashion and Product Design & In- terior Architecture, along with other knowledge partners. At FM researchers work on research projects in cooperation with public partners such as universities and governments on one hand and private partners like companies and trade associations on the other. FM has the charac- teristics of a lab and studio for interdisciplinary design based research. The main goal of FM is to develop more sustainable value chains for products and services in the  eld of fashion, textiles, product and interior design. The research methodology is design driven (Construc- tive Design Research, Research Through Design) what means that in every research project piloting with materials, techniques, new functions, market interventions based on models and prototypes are essential parts of the process. Real objects are the hypothesis of each design re- search and they will be tested by different stakeholders.

www.futuremakers.artez.nl


ArtEZ Master Fashion Design

Fashion as Commons

Fashion is the public domain in which we show up for each other, inspiring and aligning ourselves with others. Fashion doesn’t limit itself to garments; it expresses itself in our speech, in our movements, in the objects we create, and in the way, we shape and perform our identities and relationships. It is a very lively and exciting space.

Fashion as Commons invites you to join us in activating the dynamic and powerful potential of fashion to create social, cultural, ecological and economic change. It offers a clearing, an opening in which experimentation, curiosity and spontaneity are celebrated as operative modes of being.

www.artez.nl/en/course/fashion-design-1


ArtEZ Master Fashion Strategy

Unique in its kind, the MA Fashion Strategy is concerned with fashion’s intangible practices. We examine where fashion lives beyond the cloth – for example in language, networks and spaces – and explore how fashion can play a fuller role in the production of real social, cultural and economic alternatives, moving towards a more honest and equitable reality for everyone involved. We ask ourselves: What kind of language is needed?, How should we organize ourselves?, What kind of networks can we embody?, What spaces can we occupy? To explore these questions, we make use of a variety of strategies, among them: intuition, (creative) writing, publishing, intervention, activism, reading groups, colloquia, exhibition-making, performance, film-making, podcasting, vlogging. Central to these explorations is the concept of interdisciplinarity and the autonomy of the student in relation to the larger community he/she is part of. This translates into a project-based curriculum, which means – specifically in the first year – students work collaboratively on a group project under the supervision of a tutor. Within the context of these projects, students are facilitated in formulating, exploring and refining their own research objectives. Through this project-based approach we create an immersive learning experience that relates closely to challenges within the current field of fashion. This immersive learning experience is facilitated through our learning community, consisting of our students, tutors, guest tutors, professors, Centre of Expertise, other ArtEZ MA programmes and professionals from the field of fashion and design.

www.artez.nl/en/course/fashion-strategy






Partners





Colophon

Editor Daniëlle Bruggeman

Design by Beau Bertens & Andrea Spikker

Webdevelopment by Charlie Berendsen